Dior’s first artistic director, the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri proclaimed her feminism during her inaugural parade for the Parisian house on Friday, when unexpected silhouettes of fencers rubbed shoulders with light embroidered tulle dresses. “We should all be feminists” (“We should all be feminists”): the message was printed in black letters on white t-shirts, worn with long skirts. Other t-shirts the phrase “Dio (r) evolution of the poster”. A long-awaited rendezvous of the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week, this show marked the debut of the 52-year-old designer Dior, who had previously headed the creation of Valentino and who was succeeded in July by the Belgian Raf Simons, Chez Calvin Klein. At Maria Grazia Chiuri, the feminism of the uniform of the fencer, mask aside. A uniform that allows to escape “the stereotyped categories + masculine / feminine, + young / less young, + reason / sentiment +”. An unusual appearance on the part of this creative place of Valentino, where she became known alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli – now alone in the artistic direction of the Roman house – with its romantic silhouettes, influenced by the period of the Renaissance. “I have a girl and a boy, I want the same chances in life, because at this moment I’m not sure that everyone and the cross,” explains behind the scenes the designer, wearing a pendant Superman S-shaped silver.
Nina Al Mussawy